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590. boletín del centro naval

The Centro Naval was founded in 1882 by a group of young officers as a gathering point, a conference center & a place to form bonds on a more social level outside of a military setting. Still going strong after 140 years, its beautiful location at the busy intersection of Calle Florida & Avenida Córdoba also supports academic & cultural activities as well as book publishing. Although closed to non-members, they offer occasional guided tours… definitely worth a visit just for the fancy ballroom:

In Issue #850 of their bulletin published in 2019, author & contributor Enrique Aramburu began by investigating famous naval officers buried inside Recoleta Cemetery. He later expanded his research to include all those involved in maritime activity who found their final resting place in Recoleta:

The result is a fantastic resource for anyone interested in a visit focused on Argentina’s naval history. Forty important figures are listed in the article, accompanied by a brief biography & several historic portraits. We’ve already covered quite a few of the people mentioned here, including:

We’d love to collaborate & design a map for members of the Centro Naval to use. Please get in touch if interested!

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586. entrance fee established

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee, sign
Photo posted by Mariano Fraga on Twitter.

In 2015, we wrote about a possible entrance fee being established for Recoleta Cemetery. The idea was shelved, then COVID hit in 2020 & the cemetery closed to tourists for almost two years. But as of April 4th —with very little advance notice— the Buenos Aires city government will charge foreigners 1400 pesos (at this time almost 13 USD) to visit what is still declared by Law 4977 as a public space.

A Clarín article from 30 Mar 2022 by Karina Niebla states that income generated will be used for maintaining all cemeteries in Buenos Aires (for example: renovating the pantheon in Flores, restoring niches in Chacarita & reinforcing security in Recoleta). Let’s hope so. Still, we can’t help but wonder why is the entrance fee so expensive or why a public space is being privatized.

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee

Another problem the city government failed to address is that tour operators that have already sold packages including a cemetery visit must absorb this extra cost until the fee can be incorporated into future services. This argument halted implementation of an entrance fee in 2015 & still remains valid. With no grace period or temporary exemption, tour companies must take yet another cut in income after two years of almost no clients at all. We’ll have to wait & see how the situation unfolds.

Residents of Argentina can enter for free, except if they visit on a guided tour… then they must pay 700 pesos (currently a bit over 6 USD). Guides are exempt from the entrance fee, but at some point all cemetery guides will have to participate in a training course given at the cemetery. We’re all for that!

The online ticketing system seems straightforward enough, but authorities have cut two hours from visiting time. Recoleta Cemetery opens at 07:00, but visitors cannot enter until 09:00. Sneaky & a shame since those early hours have incredible light from the sunrise. Clicking through various screens generates an electronic ticket as shown below:

Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee
Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee
Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery, entrance fee

Tickets are only available online. Our Recoleta Cemetery PDF guidebook will be updated soon with this new information & links to pre-purchase tickets.


Update (01 Oct 2023): As of today, the official price of a ticket to Recoleta Cemetery has “increased” to 3768 pesos from its original value listed above. While the amount in local currency has gone up, in terms of USD the price has actually decreased since tickets were first established due to Argentina’s rampant inflation. With the current official exchange rate at 365,50 pesos per USD, the ticket price now sits at $10.31. Expect this value to continue to vary until inflation is brought under control… probably not any time in the foreseeable future.


Update (Jan 2024): That last price increase did not last long! But the newest price hike to 5090 pesos isn’t surprising given recent elections & even more inflation. With the current official exchange rate at 819 pesos per USD, the ticket price is now about $6.20. We’ll try to stay on top of this rollercoaster.

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